A 5 year old’s guide to photography terms

I suppose its the same with any hobby/trade/profession; there are masses of terms that are used which insiders know, but which might as well be Chinese as far as newcomers are concerned.

There are some who revel in the use of them trying to bamboozle the newbie into thinking they know so much of the impenetrable jungle.

What I’m going to try and do is list some of the main ones and explain them in terms which a 5 year old could understand. This is not perhaps likely to be as helpful as possible as having seen my THREE year old grand daughter using an i-pad and compact camera, she’s probably way ahead of me but as I often think that technology should be sold with a 10 year old boy attached to explain it to me I’ll try and reverse the process.

OK so here goes:

First up we have three ways of controlling the exposure. What we term exposure is the total amount of light that is necessary for the image to be correctly exposed. That means neither too light nor too dark.

Those three ways are:

1) Size of aperture

2) Shutter speed

3) ISO rating

Taking them one at a time – the difficult one to explain first:

The aperture is the hole in the lens through which the light goes. Fairly obviously the bigger the hole the more light passes through. Unfortunately this is represented by numbers going the other way. The larger the number the smaller the hole. There is a reason for this and it does help to understand it so you understand what the camera is telling you.

These numbers are called F stops. The F standing for focal and the number is the relationship between the focal length of the lens and the diameter of the hole. (I’ll come back to focal lengths later- a whole separate can of worms.) If you have a lens with a focal length of 50mm and the hole in the lens is 25mm then the F number is 2 (50/25) shown normally as f2. if the lens has a focal length of 100mm and the hole is 50mm in diameter then again the F number is f2 (100/50) If your lens is 50mm and your camera’s is telling you the aperture is f11 then the size of the hole is about 4.5mm 50/11 and so on.

Now comes the confusing bit as to the odd numbers you see. In photography what we what to know is what adjustments we need to make to get the right exposure and the standard is that each stop will double (or halve) the amount of light falling on the sensor. (Stop really relates to the aperture size only but is used generally to denote a doubling or halving of the light getting to the sensor) So we need to know when we enlarge or decrease the size of the hole when it is going to do that. If we start at f2 then each stop smaller is f2.8 f4, f5.6, f8, f11, f16, f22. That is moving from one to the next will always half or double the exposure depending on which way you are going.

That’s the confusing bit isn’t it? Why aren’t they all the same difference? f2 f4 f8 f16 etc. Well its all to do with physics/mathematics. Take yourself back to school and those maths lessons that you so loved. If you want to do the maths be my guest but if you take the diameter of the aperture and apply pi -r squared (haven’t got mathematical symbols on my keyboard) you will find that the AREA of each of the holes is half that of the previous one, so its letting in half the light.

Matters are further confused by cameras theses days because you can increase them in half or even third stops so you will see figures like f3.5 f6.7, f9.5 but they are just intermediate stops. So if for example you needed to double the amount of light you are letting through and your camera tells you the aperture is f8 then you need to adjust it to ……da da. f?? Answer at the end.

OK, so the second adjustment we have is time or shutter speed. This is the length of time the shutter is open and allows light through the hole. Just like a shutter on a window but somewhat faster and the time is accurate. Again we need to have time split into segments that double/half the quantity of light going through the hole/aperture. So this one is fairly easy to understand. If we start at 1sec then 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000 Again in the digital era what the camera gives you is an even greater range usually going from 30seconds to 1/4000

So it’s fairly common sense to see that if we wish to double the amount of light going through and the camera is telling us its set at 1/125 we need to change it to?? da da…(answer at end)

Hopefully you are following me so far. You can probably see that we have an infinite choice of how we mix the two and still allow the same total light through to the sensor. For example if we take a shot at 1/250 using f11 we would get exactly the same exposure if we used 1/60 at f22. (2 speed settings slower and 2 aperture settings smaller) The reason why we might want to change either shutter speed or aperture I’ll leave until another time.

Now there is a third element we can control to adjust the final image although this one doesn’t change the amount of light going into the camera, it adjusts the sensitivity of the sensor to that light. Don’t ask me how it does it, go find that 10 year old boy I mentioned at the beginning. Suffice for us to know that it can be done. How? Simples. By adjusting the setting known as the ISO rating.Duh. The what?? If you tried to guess what ISO stood for and you though photographic thoughts you would be around a long while. The initials stand for International Standards Organisation and it is that organisation that sets the standard internationally for various matters including film speed from where we derive the sensor speed. What do the numbers mean? I haven’t a clue but who cares? All we need to know is that a doubling of the number represents one stop (there’s that term again) increase in speed. ISO in the camera usually start at 100 or 200 and keep doubling 200, 400, 800,….. up to massive 25600 and probably beyond. One point we have to consider when deciding on the ISO to use is that the faster the rating (bigger the number) the more noise we are going to get. Noise? Ye, thats the jangling of chains you hear every time you press the shutter! No idea why they called in noise. It’s what in the film days was referred to as grain, the little speckles that you would see in a photo where the lumps of silver had clubbed together to get you a faster emulsion. Noise comes in two types, (everything these days has to be more numerous than the old days doesn’t it?). But I’m not going into that here. If anyone is still with me I think thats quite enough to absorb at the moment. In future blogs I’ll come back and explain the relationship between all three and how to use them to improve your results. (If anyone’s interested)

In the meantime the answers: f5.6 and 1/60th

TO lighten the mood a bit here’s a couple of shots from the yesterday.

No such thing as bad weather?

Read the magazines or photo books and they all say that there’s no such thing as bad weather. Yes, everyone loves a sunny day or better still the golden hour at sunrise and sunset but, they say, even if the sun is not shining there are plenty of photo opportunities.

They then go on to show stormy seas with thunder clouds looming or mist hanging trapped between mountain ranges giving superb images.

What they seem to be less inclined to do is show what to do when the weather is really against the photographer which is what we have had for the past few days. Solid cloud. 17% grey. Horizon to horizon. It makes for totally flat images, especially here in middle England where I have neither seas or mountain ranges to make an interesting photograph.

Anyway I thought I’d challenge myself and see what I could do in the circumstances. A church yard seemed appropriate, and a muddy towpath.

Did I succeed in making a master piece? Don’t think so but I’m reasonably pleased that there are a couple of passable images. Converting to B & W was the only way of making them acceptable. Taken on my Olympus OM-D EM5 with 14mm Lumix f2.5

Getting myself in gear – and out of gear

i really must try harder to do this blog! What to talk about? Travelling light I think. If you look back at previous posts you will see that I have moved to prime lens with a 12mm Lumix and 3 Sigma lens 19mm 30mm and 60mm. I really enjoy using the primes. It makes me think so much more about composition rather than just zooming in or out a bit. I’ll look at different angles and use my feet to get closer of further away. This got me thinking about how far I could reduce the gear I carry around. I’m using MFT so have already saved a great deal of weight but with the three lens and bits and pieces including a travel tripod I was still loading myself up quite a bit and as I usually have out 2 border terriers with me when I wander around I wanted to try minimal kit.

The obvious thing was to go with a wide angle so I could be sure of capturing everything I wanted but if I wanted to get close the perspective could be odd. great sometimes for something different but not what I always want. The problem then became that if I went for something longer, say my 30mm, what was I to do about wide angle? The answer was obviously to try stitching a panorama and this is what I’ve been doing for the last couple of months and have really enjoyed creating the image that way. It also obviously gives me a much larger file size for any given scene.

Here’s a couple from the Peak district, the second one is stitched both ways vertical and horizontal;

Peak District
6 images stitched

(I’m using new software new too. I’ve given up Adobe Photoshop and moved to Affinity and I’ll post about that soon)

We had a month in the Peak District in our caravan and although I took all my bits and pieces with me I disciplined myself to only use the one lens and really it was not a problem and has given me enormous file sizes for the wide angle views should I wish to do any really large prints.

More details to follow

A trio of brilliant lenses

So on to my other purchases, the trio of Sigma lens for my Olympus OMD-EM5.

I bought two of them through Ebay; the 19mm and the 60mm. I think its probably a testament to how good these lenses are and what value for money that there are very few of them on the second hand market.

The 19mm is the old design with a lens barrel that has a ribbed effect for grip. The later ones are very smooth and I really dont like the look as much although in operation they are Ok to use.

All three are incredibly sharp and, at least compared to the zoom kit lens I had been using, very quick to focus.

I should perhaps add a note as to why I chose 3 prime lens when I could have purchased another zoom lens covering the same range. Olympus do a “pro” zoom lens covering 12mm – 40mm so wider than I can now do but shorter at the telephoto end. I do not shoot very wide angle much so the 12mm did not really interest me and I wanted a rather longer range at the top end than the 40mm. Another option would have been the 12 – 100 but that only has a maximum aperture of f4 and I really wanted something larger for lower light and also to minimise depth of field which with micro four thirds is not great anyway. Also the 3 prime lens set me back less than £300 in total whereas even secondhand I would have been paying out at least another £200 for the telephoto.

The only downside is that I end up changing lens a lot more but thats something I’m happy to do, its another reason to stop and think about the framing before pressing the shutter.

Here’s just a quick couple of images. Just the 19mm and 30mm at the moment. I’ve not really shot anything with the 60mm worthy of reproducing!

If you have any comments or queries please do leave me a comment below.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Teazle, the border terrier I shot with the 30mm just quickly as I was playing around with the camera. I popped a flashgun on and bounced it off the cupboard door next to her.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Sunday morning walk in Norfolk 19mm

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

As above

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

A walk over Bungay marshes on a frosty morning. Shot on the 19mm